Tuesday, April 18, 2017

Chiang Mai & the Ethical Quandary of Elephant Tourism

Elephants y'all.
Chiang Mai, the largest city in North Thailand, is the capital of the Chiang Mai Province and one of the hottest tourist destinations in the country. It's divided into the old city, which is walled off, and the new city surrounding it. It's got a fresh vibe (I felt it was Austin, TX-esque - which was weird, but complimentary), some of the best food in Thailand, and elephant tourism, which is why we went. The city is just an hour and 15 minute flight from Bangkok, and a must-visit.

Our first meal was on the north end of the old city at a heavily Chinese-influenced market. This cowboy hat-wearing woman is starting to build quite a reputation and was recommended by multiple foodie friends. She's simply known as the Cowgirl. 
We got some khao ka moo, which is pork leg. Simple and good. 


Pad Thai wrapped in an omelette, which is a popular way of serving the dish. My hot take is honestly that I feel like Pad Thai has become such a popular western dish that I prefer the American-Thai version. #SoAmerican 

Chiang Mai night market is the thing to do. Merchandise of everything that you can bargain for... like this imitation Jordan with a badonkadonk like Shaq's. Never pay full price at a market place.
This was the Austin part of Chiang Mai. Instead of food trucks, it was a land of cheap gourmet (oxymoron?) food stands, they had everything you can imagine - and we continued to eat our share of pad Thai, Khao Soi (more on this in a minute), and even funnel cake! Yes. We ate funnel cake in Chiang Mai. No, not Thai's version of funnel cake. Good old fashioned USA funnel cake.

I'm telling you this little shopping center was straight Americana.
Complete with live music and haystack seats.
Chiang Mai is famous for their sausage called sai ua. It's good like all sausage off the grill, but I don't remember anything standing out to me. It's no red Chinese sausage that you get from Ranch 99 or any generic Asian supermarket! #ChineseElitism



Say hello to my favorite "restaurant" in all of Thailand. This little food stand was next to our Little Bears Hotel, which is super cheap, but I don't remember the rates. They were open early in the morning and I ordered some Khao soi, which is a lightly-spiced curry egg noodle soup with some crispy noodles sprinkled in, and your choice of protein. This spot had more protein option - I got the crispy pork (which tasted like pork belly).
I can't reiterate how addicted to this I was. How much do you think this cost? 40bht! That's like $1.15!!!

My girl hustling in the early morning, making those fresh noodles. The greatness of all these Thai spots - sometimes you have to forget about Trip Advisor and just explore. I fell in love with this lady!

Welcome to the epitome of cognitive dissonance. Chiang Mai is known for elephant tourism but you have to watch out for the many inhumane spots that are infamous for poor animal treatment. There's a comprehensive blog if you Google "Chiang Mai elephant tours" that outlines the more elephant-friendly. The best are Patara and the Elephant Nature Park, but both of those were sold out months in advance. The website stated Chai Lai Orchid was one of the more humane spots so we chose to go with them. Chai Lai is also involved with Daughters Rising, an organization that helps rescue young Burmese women from sex trafficking.

First meeting the elephants was awesome. You feed them bananas and they love it. There' were about 6 or 7 of them, but they had one foot chained to either a tree or the ground. We were told that's for their own protection as it prevents them from walking onto roads and getting hit by vehicles. Still, it seemed a little suspicious.

Mindy meets baby Dumbo.
When you select an elephant tour, be sure to find an outfitter that doesn't offer chair riding or elephant shows. Chair-riding is evidently devastating for an elephant's back, but riding bareback is okay. You also want to avoid any outfitters that have elephant shows, because they treat the animals horribly to get them to act accordingly. 



Squad. Riding the elephant, you just sit on his neck and brace yourself on his head. Sounds like that would be irritating to the elephants, but they're so massive that they can hardly feel us. At least, that's how I justify. It didn't feel like we were exploiting the animals. Pete seems to be nervous in the back.
That feeling when you're riding an elephant and need to make a Usain Bolt celebration pose.
After a quick pad Thai lunch, we went on a bamboo rafting ride in cold water as it rained. It was freezing. This would be a great experience in warm weather, instead for us it was just cold. Your butt is basically chilling in water the whole time. I did "paddle" for a little spell. Essentially, you use another piece of bamboo and drive it into the river bottom for momentum.
Bathing the elephant. This experience started off well, but quickly took a turn. It's a joyous occasion to clean these wonderful beasts. You use a scrub bush to clean up his rough, thick skin that's covered in mud. It was all fantastic. The handlers tell you to go ahead and sit on his trunk and he lifts you up. Their trunks raised my 160-lb body like it was nothing. So fun. But once the elephant put me down, the handler put a harmonica in his mouth and had him play. I assume - and hopefully am wrong - that there's only one way he became conditioned to do this - exploitation. That means whipping and who knows what else. The handler, who spoke very little English and thinking we were entertained by this, then told the elephant to raise and drop a leg as if he were dancing. This left a bad taste in our mouths. It made me look at the entire operation differently. I spent around $100 US to do this. I wouldn't go back. In fact, I'd recommend only two: Patara, and if you can't get in there, the Elephant Nature Park.
There are more than 300 Buddhist temples in Chiang Mai. I forget the names of which ones we visited, but this was certainly my favorite for the tranquil ambience. 
The Buddhas were surrounded by water and surrounded with lanterns.

Wat?
Wat!

Stairs to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, which overlooks Chiang Mai.
The view from Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. Sadly it was overcast and rainy, so we couldn't see much. We got up here for sunrise, but it was a little underwhelming because of the weather. Apparently it's normally quite impressive.

The fish pedicure fad is still alive in Thailand. Tiny toothless fish eat away the dead skin on your feet, but the US started clamping down because the fish may carry bacteria that can cause infections. Gross. I didn't do this. This is totally some random person's feet.

Khao soi near the night market. Ate next door to a highly-rated place called Lemongrass, which was filled with European travelers which made us question its authenticity and popularity. My khao soi was just fine.
Never enough khao soi. Seriously had around 6 bowls of this in 2 days.

I had every intention to mock this sign on social network, then the crew proceeded to tell me it's very common for Chinese tourists to use the toilet like such. So I didn't post what would've been a hilarious sign in America. Sigh. Such sacrifices not to appear like an ignorant American. That said, one good thing about the form in this sign is that it should ease flow, according to the Squatty Potty. #themoreyouknow

Lady boys! First off, I'm not being brutish or offensive, this is the common term used for some transgender individuals. The surgeries and operations that many have are so well done that it's quite common for tourists to be unable to tell if they are women or men. I saw a sign that said cabaret show at 930p and walked over at 10p - nobody was there! Granted, this was at the family-friendly night market... Gotta know your audience! 
Elephants out.


Hong Kong: the Layover

Skyline. For the astute Batman fan, the building in "Dark Knight" when Batman kidnaps the accountant Lau is to the right behind me. Best comic book movie ever!

En route to Thailand, we had a 10-hour layover in Hong Kong. This could not have been more ideal, as Mindy's sister, Karen and her husband, Viv live in HK. We had a jam-packed layover that would impress Anthony Bourdain (does he still have that "Layover" show? My references might be even more dated than I thought). Arrive at 10am, take the airport train to Central, the aptly-titled central Hong Kong business district. From their, we hike Victoria Peak, which offers a stunning view of the city. After building up an appetite, we went to dim sum at the famous Maxim's, but the wait was too long so we jetted to the Kowloon-side (quick ferry) to Nanhai #1, located on the 30th floor of the Isquare building (a gigantic shopping mall as far as I'm concerned). Beautiful panoramic view of Hong Kong, pricier than most dim sum because of the atmosphere, but certainly worth it. After grabbing lunch with the fam, I met up with my Aunt Margaret from my father's side who I probably haven't seen in 10 years or so. We catch up, and it's surreal to me because I noticed so many behaviors similar to my dad that I never realized before. After tea and coffee with my aunt, we hopped back on the ferry to have one last drink before heading to the airport by 7p.


From the ferry, Victoria Harbour.

View from the balcony of Nanhai. Kowloon is in the foreground, HK in the back.

All of these photos were extracted from my GoPro as I didn't really take too many with my iPhone. Problem - foreshadowing - would be that the GP was lost later in Thailand. Therefore, these are my only photos of HK.

On the Cathay Pacific flight from HK to Bangkok, I noticed the airline has a really strong affinity for "21 Jump Street." I actually loved that movie, so I'm not gonna criticize it as a western classic along the likes of "Butch Cassidy" and "Casablanca."

Next:
Bangkok

Thursday, October 20, 2016

The Birth of Abomination: Why Fox News' Racist Story Cuts Deep for Asian-Americans


Actress Madeline Kahn was yelling at me to take action, but I was too blinded by my own anger to listen.

“Speak! Speak! Why don’t you speak?” Kahn screamed in a scene from “Young Frankenstein.” The clip is spliced into the now infamous “O’Reilly Factor” segment after Fox News correspondent Jesse Watters asks an elderly Asian woman, who clearly doesn’t understand English, how she feels about Donald Trump. She stands silently as the Mel Brooks classic is defiled by being in this piece. The clip is played for laughs, but it’s really just played out.

The Video That Forged an Awakening

By now you may have heard or seen the video that GQ tweeted is probably “the most racist Fox News segment ever.” The rough assignment was for Watters to head to Chinatown to get Chinese opinions on Donald Trump. As Watters faced an onslaught of backlash, he tweeted a flippant non-apology that his segment is meant to be “tongue-in-cheek.” Unfortunately, the foot-in-mouth piece misses its target like Dick Cheney hunting with Harry Whittington. Watters manages to check off a litany of lazy Asian stereotypes, including broken accents, foot massages, and Mr. Miyagi. The latter a timely reference that “The Daily Show” comedian Ronny Chieng compared to “making fun of Americans for ‘Saturday Night Fever’ and Mr. T.” In fairness, ridiculing Mr. T is never acceptable.

A particularly ignorant touch in this story about the Chinese involved Watters asking a man if he knows karate (Japanese), then sparring with him in a taekwondo studio with a South Korean flag in the background. As it were, that karate man, Qanta Shimizu, said on Facebook the experience left him uncomfortable and ashamed. This is how it transpired:

He asked me about "What do Chinese people feel about Donald Trump?" and of course I replied to him like "Oh I'm Japanese, not the right person to reply to that question?".

Ridiculously, he didn't ask what I feel about Trump as Japanese, instead of that, he asked me "Do you know Karate?"

Non-Apologies and the Attempted Politicizing of Racism

The criticism of the Watters segment has been strong and steadfast, culminating thus far in a protest outside of Fox News headquarters in Manhattan, led by several elected officials and different minority organizations, not just from the Asian community. New York City Mayor Bill de Blasio tweeted: “the vile, racist behavior of Fox’s Jesse Watters in Chinatown has no place in our city. @FoxNews – keep this guy off TV.” Watching public outcry has been heartening, but Watters’ own non-apology tweet was equally disheartening. His defense: “As a political humorist, the Chinatown segment was intended to be a light piece, as all Watters World segments are.” In a second tweet: “My man-on-the-street interviews are meant to be taken as tongue-in-cheek and I regret if anyone found offense.”

How insulting. This is the worst non-apology since Ryan Lochte lied about getting robbed in Brazil during the Rio Olympics. Watters is telling the offended that it’s their fault for not understanding the segment was intended to be funny. Obviously, we know that the piece was meant to be fun. The piece failed when all it did was mock Asian people in Chinatown, most of whom did not understand what Watters was saying. Bill O’Reilly threw fuel on the fire when he defended Watters to Chris Wallace on “Fox News Sunday”:

I would have edited it a little bit differently than it was edited. But, no, it wasn't over the line. We ran that piece on Monday of last week. 5 million people, plus, saw it live-time. You know how many negative letters we got? Less than ten. You know how many phone calls came in to Fox News? Zero, as far as I know. We checked. It was 36 hours later that this outrage appeared. And where did it appear? Far-left websites, far-left precincts. I read every single one. They're all the same.

So this is an attack on Fox News. That's what it is. It's happened before. I thought it was a gentle piece. There were a few things in there I felt were over the line. The old lady, I would have taken that out. I should have seen it before, but I'm so busy with the election that I didn't. But, [Jesse] Waters is a gentle satirist. He's worked very well for us. We're proud of him. This is an organized campaign. This is what they do. They've done it before.

You can make an argument that politics plays a role in this outrage. Then again, you can make an argument that socks look good with Birkenstocks. My point is, you can argue anything. For me, politics has nothing to do with my indignation and it’s infuriating to see O’Reilly attempt to politicize the response. There’s nothing Republican or Democrat when someone uses the N-word or loops all Asian cultures into one karate-knowing group. That’s just ignorance. O’Reilly uses the term “gentle satirist.” Humor is always the easiest defense. Watters defenders are hiding behind the cloak of comedy. Can’t you take a joke? Stop being so sensitive.

The Silence of Asian Culture

Therein lies the problem that’s long faced the Asian community. Silence. The Asian culture has always emphasized being quiet and steadfast. Work hard, be rewarded. Ask any Asian you know how their parents raised them, and the odds are the answer will be to work diligently, ignore the noise, and be respectful of others. That’s not a stereotype, that’s a cultural priority. It’s why Asians are referred to as the “model minority,” a myth that emphasizes Asians’ focus on educational and financial success, all as passive and “model” citizens. Compared to stereotypes that affect blacks and Hispanics, it sounds like Asians have won the racism lottery. But it’s not all affirmatively awesome. The myth makes Asians appear less threatening and more susceptible to inconsequential racism. That silence has allowed for derogatory language and stereotypes to persist over the years that other minority groups would never stand for.

Can you imagine Jesse Watters waltzing into Harlem and asking black residents: “Do they call African food in Africa, just food?” “Can you guys stop terrorism in Somalia?” “Are you good at basketball?” The answer is no. I’m firmly aware of this because I subjected myself to watching two more Watters Fox segments in which he went to Harlem to do man-on-the-street interviews, and he didn’t attempt any of those offensive moves at “humor.” Yet, those are essentially the questions Watters asks the people of Chinatown: “Do they call Chinese food in China just food?” “Can you guys take care of North Korea for us?” “Do you know karate?” Watters asked these questions because he was unconcerned about the repercussions. Even Bill O’Reilly knew the bit was “probably going to get some letters,” so he brushed it off as “gentle fun.” Crying Jordans memes are gentle fun, this was a gross misuse of journalistic influence.

When Jeremy Lin and Linsanity shook up the NBA (I’m being modest, really the country) in 2012, the word “chink” was still cavalierly used. ESPN was even guilty of using it as a pun. I was recently at the LA Rams preseason camp when the spouse of a player used the phrase “chinky eyes” right in front of me. She didn’t do it maliciously, it came naturally. The point being that many people don’t realize that word is the Chinese equivalent of the N-word. How has the Asian community not created enough backlash to make it clear that vernacular is not acceptable? Because speaking out is not embedded in our culture. Name a black civil right activist. Easy. Name one who’s Hispanic. Cesar Chavez. Name an Asian civil rights leader. Honestly, I can’t either.

The Long Duk Dong Effect

The identity problems in the Asian-American community run deeper than decibels. That’s where media portrayals enter the scene. I lived in Alabama and Wyoming, both of which have miniscule Asian populations, and I’d receive many seemingly ignorant questions about my ethnicity; but the questions were rarely ever based in malice, instead it was general curiosity from residents who’ve never had an extended conversation with a Chinese man. In rural America, the Asian population is so sparse, how besides media do people learn of Asian culture?

That’s where Watters’ racist caricature carries so much power. Take the late John Hughes, creator of iconic ‘80s films; beloved filmmaker of films like “Ferris Bueller” and “The Breakfast Club.” For many Asian males, he’s deeply resented for creating a socially awkward, emasculated nerd that was a walking punch line, Long Duk Dong in “Sixteen Candles.” There were so few Asians in popular media, that Long Duk Dong became the prototype for the Asian-American man.

One might point out Asians have Bruce Lee, Jackie Chan as cultural role models. Lee is certainly an icon, but he died in 1973. Chan’s first US movie wasn’t until 1995 (“Rumble in the Bronx” which was originally filmed in Cantonese and dubbed in English). Plus, these guys are both martial artists, which only perpetuates the stereotype that all Asians know karate, ultimately leading to Watters’ question.

Don’t get it twisted, these tired portrayals (or lack thereof) take their toll on the Asian identity. Name some Asian stereotypes: bad driver, broken accents, anatomic shortcomings, etc. When you’re young and don’t look like others, don’t eat the same food, and that’s all you see of your culture on TV growing up – who wants to be Asian? African-Americans must deal with far more racial strife than Asians, but from a strictly pop culture standpoint: black culture is cool (as witnessed from its constant appropriation); Asian culture is not. Mainstream TV shows like “Fresh Off the Boat,” “Master of None,” and “Dr. Ken” are changing that, but that’s a recent revolution.

I don’t speak for all Asians here, but I know I don’t just speak for myself either. The Watters segment triggered memories of identity suppression, self-doubt, and ridicule. I grew up in conservative, affluent, white Orange County, CA, in the ‘80-90s, which was pre-Asian boom. My friends were predominantly white and I loved being the “cool” Asian kid that was accepted to hang with the white kids. There were times I mocked the handful of other Asians who spoke with a broken accent and packed mapo tofu dishes for lunch. There was also a time when a group of Asians even bullied me. The problem, so evident now, was that I was ashamed of my identity. I didn’t want to be Chinese. I wanted to be white so I could fit in. My father once told me he tried to set me up with all white friends as a child to make it easier on me. I can only imagine the merciless racism immigrants like my dad faced when he first moved to the US in 1959. He didn’t want his only son to face the same plight and I understand that, but it came at the expense of cultural pride. I purposely did not learn kung fu because I didn’t want to be a stereotypical Asian. That same stubbornness led to my refusal to learn Mandarin, a decision that continues to haunt me and has prevented me from having more meaningful relationships with family members who don’t speak English. That is the cost of complete cultural assimilation, but it need not be so drastic. To quote Obi-Wan Kenobi, “Only a Sith deals in absolutes.” There is no shame now. I’m woke.

Watters took advantage of a race he thought would not fight back, because historically, Asians have not. He bullied those who had no idea they were being bullied. He’s no stranger to controversy, either. He once followed, ambushed, and harassed a blogger on vacation who was critical of Bill O’Reilly’s comments about a woman who was raped and murdered (according to her article in the Huffinton Post, O’Reilly implied the victim was partially at fault because of what she wore).

Now Watters’ racist story woke a sleeping tiger, as Nielsen research estimates the Asian-American buying power will be more than a trillion dollars by 2018. A month ago, NBC was set to develop a TV show about a mail-order bride from the Philippines, but it was canceled immediately after the AAPI community criticized the premise for making light of human trafficking and racial stereotyping of Asian women. Under pressure from the Asian American Journalist Association, an “O’Reilly Factor” executive producer has agreed to meet with AAJA and several community leaders to discuss the Oct. 3 segment of “Watters’ World.” A New York Times op ed about everyday racism further invigorated Asian-Americans to tell their stories. It has taken the AAPI community a long time to be more vocal, but it’s happening.

Speak, you say? Done. But will you listen?


Postscript:

I leave you with this exchange that gave me so much hope, from Twitter no less:


Monday, August 1, 2016

What to Watch For in Cleveland: Rock Hall and LeBron. That's the List

It's his town.
Cleveland, OH
June 2016
NBA Finals Game 3 - Warriors at Cavs

When I first got to my hotel in downtown Cleveland around 1am, the fire department was inspecting the lobby.  #SoCleveland
As you'll have noticed by now, I'm a fan of random art. Here's a stamp labeled "free." Free from solid dining options maybe...
Skyline from Lake Erie.
That's the Browns stadium to the right. Bet you didn't think Cleveland rocked like this, eh???
Speaking of rock, the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame! What are the odds? #AmazingSegue
This is one of Bruce Springsteen's guitars. This antiquated site will not allow me to adjust the photo, so you may have to crank your neck. It's quite a gorgeous guitar that was donated to Bruce.
George Clinton's Atomic Dog slippers! Dude wore these on stage.
Michael Jackson's uniform when he served in our armed forces. #NotTrue
MJ's glove yo! It's no Franklin batting glove, that looks mad uncomfortable.

Run DMC's Adidas and glasses. Those frames would make me feel like an elderly Seinfeld character.
Paul McCartney and Ringo Starr bubbles baths. I already used my good joke on Instagram. Sigh.
So John Lennon created this mock newspaper when he was in grammar school! The artistry is incredibly impressive. This was done in the 50s. What's far less impressive, is that he casually dropped an N-bomb in it. Hmmmm. Sure he was young and British colloquialisms were different in the 50s, but still... Not cool, John.
The cover to his satirical illustrated newspaper, the Daily Howl.
More Daily Howl. Don't know why Winston Churchill doesn't get arms in his drawing. Is that a metaphor... or would you say... that's a reach?? #ImHereAllDay 
When Prince changed his name to the symbol, he sent this floppy disk to media outlets so they could download an use it properly. It's called a floppy disk, kids! But I never agreed with calling these things "floppy," unlike their actual floppy predecessors. Those things were great. You had to handle those things like plutonium they were so fragile.
The actual wall from a Pink Floyd "The Wall" concert. 
I'm feeling this dude. But this TV is way too new to be The Wall era. This set must've been from a later performance. Or the whole thing is a sham. I just noticed it says 1995 on the wall. Were TVs that thin in 1995? Something is awry.
Downtown before it's bombarded by fans.
This mural is so sick. The city was going to take it down, but after they won the chip, forget that.
The Q, where the Cavs play, is on the far left. In proportion to everything, that mural is massive. No wonder the dude's ego is so big, but you can you really blame him. The city worships him.
Pre-game 3 fan fest outside the arena. The Indians, that's baseball for some of y'all, play across the street.
Shirts on shirts on shirts.
Quicken loans/Cavs owner Dan Gilbert also owns Fathead. They gave these out to the seats behind the hoop, hoping to distract players shooting free throws.
Press row.
Blowout.
Suits and sneaks part 2.